Quenching in oil or water for a first 1084 blade? My garage still smells like burnt canola
I finally got my little two brick forge hot enough to hit non magnetic on a 1084 hunter, and I went with canola oil warmed to about 130 degrees instead of plain water because everyone on the forums said 1084 cracks in water. Now the edge skates a file but my 3/16 inch stock came out of the quench with a slight warp near the tip, so did I pick the right side of this argument? Would a fast water quench have gotten me more hardness, or just a broken blade and a lesson, and how do you all deal with warp after the fact?